Sugary Tomato - Hybrid
(Solanum lycopersicum)

For detailed step by step instructions for growing the Sugary tomato, visit our growing tomatoes page.

Heat Tolerance:  This tomato likes heat but a string of days in the 90's can cause blossom drop.  This stress can take a week or more to recover from, delaying and reducing harvest.  Woven shade cloth supported above the plants by poles is used by some growers to moderate temperature.

Fruit: Small 2 oz., oval, light red, translucent skin, smooth.
Taste
: Really tasty sweet.

Disease Resistance
: Good
Germination
: Good
Maturity
:  Late (80 days)
Productivity
: Average
Type
: Hybrid, determinate, cherry.

Germination Data

Germination rate: 80%

Time to Germination:
     1st up: 7 days
     Average: 13 days
     Last up: 18 days

Starting Seed Indoors:

  • Planting depth:  1/4 inch
  • Soil Temp.: 75-80˚F
  • When: Plant 6-8 weeks prior to the date your garden soil reaches +65˚F in your area.
  • Soil: Seed starting soil or mix your own (see growing tomatoes page for recipe).
  • No. of seeds: 2-3 per cell
  • Cell size: 1 x 1 x 2" (Length x Width x Depth) Larger sizes are fine.
  • Water with warm water/fertilizer solution (see growing tomatoes page).

Transplanting

  • When: Seedlings are 5-6 inches tall and sturdy.
  • Pot size:  6" tall or more.
  • See growing tomatoes page for transplanting details.

Planting Seedlings Outside:

  • Full Sun
  • Soil Temp: +65˚F
  • Hole depth: 12+ inches
  • Spacing: 24" apart.  36" apart if you need to walk between plants.
  • Planting depth:  Bury root ball and most of the stem.  Keep 3 or more leaved stems above ground.
  • Windy Locations:  Plant at a slight angle away from the prevailing winds.  This greatly reduces breakage.

Watering

  • Without Rain: 1 - 2x / week (depends upon temperature and soil type).
  • Timing:  Late morning or early afternoon.  The sun will quickly dry the leaves reducing the occurance of disease.

Your soil type will affect water needs.  Carefully observing the plants and how long your soil remains damp is the best way to learn how to manage your unique conditions.

Many diseases that attack tomatoes, infect the plants when water stays on the plants for long periods or splashes up from the ground.  Avoid getting water on leaves as much as possible.  If you must water on cool cloudy days, wet the soil below the plants, ie. keep the leaves dry.

Seed Genetics:  Hybrid.

Seed Collecting:  Seeds will not come true but can still be collected.  Plant's traits will vary.  Plants may express traits not seen in the hybrid. If you want to prevent crossing with other tomatoes and even more genetic variation, bag an unopened flower with spun bonded row cover material.  Remove when fruit starts forming.  Mark stem with a string so you can find it later. 

  1. Pick fruit when very ripe. 
  2. Spread seeds on a paper towel to air dry.  Don't try to get all the pulp off the seeds.  You could damage the seeds and its not necessary.
  3. Mark the variety on the towel.
  4. Move seeds around on the towel in a day or two to prevent them sticking to the towel.
  5. Store when completely dry.  Keep in a cool dry environment.  If the air is really dry (you run a dehumidifier or live in Arizona) or really humid then store in sealed moisture proof containers such as glass jars or foiled ziplock bags.  Freezer bags are the next best choice.  If your humidity is "normal", you can use a paper bag.  The seeds will be able to breathe and will last longer.

Why do they vary more?: Hybrid plants are heterogeneous meaning they carry dominant and recessive alleles for traits.  What you see or taste is the effect of the dominant allele.  This is represented by Bb were the B is the dominant trait, say black bean color.  The b represents a recessive trait which, for this example we'll say is brown beans.  Hybrids being Bb make black beans but when you collect their seeds you can get BB, Bb or bb.  The bb plants will make you brown beans next year, not black.

Life Cycle:
     Zone 10 or lower:  Grow as annual
     Zone 11 or higher:  Perennial

Determinate:  Plant will set and ripen fruit and then stop.  Our season is short enough that this habit doesn't really affect productivity.

Staking:  Some dwarf determinate tomato varieties do not require staking.  The determinate varieties that we have grown get too big to grow upright without support.  We use stakes, tomato cages or trellis to keep them upright.

Growing on the ground:  Plant the seedlings at about a 20-40 degree angle from the ground so the stem doesn't snap as the plant gets heavy.

  • Advantages:  Less expensive, less work then staking.
  • Disadvantages:  Lose more tomatoes to pests such as beetles and slugs.  Uses up more space in the garden.

Pruning: If you want to grow an upright determinate without staking, pruning can help.  Prune the terminal leaves at the top of the plant to induce new branches to form lower on the plant and help control height.  Keep the height of the plant at 2.5 feet or less for best results.

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Note:  Germination performance is affected by many factors including temperature,  package type, seed age, etc..  All our seeds are grown under the same conditions of moisture, temperature, soil content and light unless otherwise noted.  This allows us to compare varieties so you can see which ones are easier to grow.  But, since your conditions may differ, you may not experience the same results. 

These are not statistically significant sample sizes.  To do so would require we plant over 6000 tomato seeds!  But we do have germination data from previous years.  If data appears atypical, we'll note it.